Filled with enthusiasm at the thought of seeing the magnificent Kaieteur Falls, I was at Ogle Airport at 8.30 in the morning ready to jump on the plane and leave. About half-an-hour later, a group of ten people arrived and joined me in the waiting lounge. The pilots proceeded to weigh us one by one with our luggage and we were then allocated to three different small planes. We left for Guyana’s interior a little bit later than planned, at about 9.45 am.

The flight to the falls took approximately one-and-a-half hours. We flew over the cane fields of the coastal plain, the Demerara river and the mighty Essequibo river, which contains over 300 islands, some as big as the island of Barbados. Having passed the Essequibo we began to fly over the deep rainforest of Guyana where a seemingly endless green and dense canopy lay below us. Taken by such majestic beauty I could not help but think of the rainforest destruction that is taking place in so many parts of the world. This momentarily saddened me. I hope that Guyana learns from the experience of other countries and that the government takes action to ensure the preservation of its pristine, unparalleled rainforest.

Still on the plane, flying over the vast rainforest canopy, the first glance at Kaieteur is truly breathtaking. Surrounded by infinite green, this rainforest world looks as if it ends at the falls. Without previous warning, the canopy disappears into a perpendicular drop of 741 feet (250 meters) and there it is, Kaieteur Falls. These magnificent falls vary in width from 250 feet in the dry season to 450 in the rainy season, they are twice as high the Victoria Falls and almost five times as high as Niagara Falls. With all passengers soul-shaken, the planes landed at the small airstrip of Kaieteur National Park. The falls and their surrounding ecosystem have been granted special protection since they became a National Park at the end of the 1950’s. The government is currently in the process of expanding the borders of Kaieteur National Park but there is still uncertainty as to which Amerindian communities will be included and as to whether Amerindian will be guaranteed freedom of access to the park. The national park expansion plans have understandably alarmed Amerindians in the area who depend on these lands for their hunting and fishing subsistence activities. This unique ecosystem must undoubtedly be protected. However, the needs of the Amerindian communities who have for long lived in the area have to be taken into account and incorporated into any plans concerning the national park.

Back on land we were welcomed by a friendly Amerindian guide, Mike, who told us about the history of the falls and the flora and fauna of Kaieteur. Mike continued with his explanations as we walked around the falls, exploring the mountain rainforest around and admiring different views of Kaieteur, each one more breathtaking than the last. By far, for me the best view and best way to experience the grandeur of Kaieteur is to lie down on an overhang that is located right at the edge of the fall’s mouth. From here, the view of the forested gorge and mountains and the rainbows that form over the stone moss below is just magic.

After walking around the falls for about an hour and a half, we returned to the planes and flew to Orinduik Falls, which lie at the edge of the Pakaraima mountains. These falls are also of spectacular beauty and unlike Kaieteur, offer the possibility of enjoying a refreshing swim. The flight over the Pakaraima mountains was also breathtaking. Here, the landscape alternates between forested and arid mountains until you reach the Ireng River, which flows through dryer savannah lands, and also forms the national border with Brazil. The landscape thus changes dramatically from Kaieteur to Orinduik. However beautiful, the Orinduik Falls seemed tiny and mundane after seeing Kaieteur, for it is difficult to describe the beauty and majestic nature of Kaieteur. One has to experience the falls to understand why it is such a special and unique place. I am sure that the photos attached will open your appetite for Guyana, its vast rainforests and the Kaieteur Falls.

There are different travel companies which organize day trips to Kaieteur. I arranged my flight through Shell Beach Adventures, based at the Pegasus Hotel, telephone number: 592 2 54483/4. The cost for the trip was USD160.00.

Silke Seco

GSMP

March 2000